Distraction Proofing
Prerequisite: Point Walking
Equipment: Your equipment includes a 15 foot nylon ‘longe line’ (long leash - but never a retractable, or 'flexi'
leash!), a properly fitted choke collar (slips over the dog’s head easily, but does not have more than 5” of extra
collar when pulled snug at the top of the dog's neck with the ring that attaches to the leash), and a piece of tape
(for your mouth...if you are able to refrain from talking to the dog without the tape, you may omit this piece of
equipment
NOTE: Start this week by working with EASY distractions and work up toward more difficult ones! If you are
working with an aggressive dog, be sure there is always more than enough distance between your dog and the
'distraction' to ensure safety for everyone involved - even if that means you're working from 50 feet or more
away!
1. Set up a distraction such as a favorite toy, a propped open gate, a dog in the distance, etc. You can plant
the distraction at one of the points you've been using, or in any open area (including your own backyard).
2. This distraction should be at least 20 feet away from you as you begin toward it.
3. If your dog forges ahead (if dog's head moves in front of your legs) toward the distraction, do an about-face
turn and move QUICKLY back to where you began.
Even if your dog doesn’t forge ahead of you, when you get half-way toward the distraction,
do an about-face turn and walk back to your beginning location.
4. When your dog is no longer forging wildly toward the distraction, approach to a safe distance
and turn away again. If the dog turns with you, showing more interest in you than the distraction, you have one
'refusal.' Get several more refusals (the dog turning with you and refusing to go after the distraction) before
moving on to step 5. Use good judgement - don't approach too closely to any distractions that could be
dangerous to you or your dog.
5. After you have several refusals, move toward the distraction again. This time, when you reach your desired
distance from the distraction, simply stop. If the dog moves forward, about-face turn and run. Continue this
process until the dog shows no interest in the distraction and is stopping behind you or next to you, waiting
expectantly for your next move. This is called a 'proof.' Repeat until you get 5 -10 proofs per distraction.
6. Repeat Steps 1 through 5 with as many distractions as you possibly can. You will
not be ready for formal heeling (loose-leash walking) until your dog views every distraction it encounters
as a set-up that you have created for training.
NOTE: Sometimes, you will have a distraction that the dog will eventually be allowed to
interact with calmly, such as a toy, another dog, a person, etc. In these cases, we don't
want the dog to think the distraction itself is bad, but that forging wildly ahead of you
to get to the distraction is. For these distractions, follow steps 1 through 4 above,
until you have a few good refusals. Then, give your dog the 'release' to calmly investigate
the distraction. If your dog is not calm, it is not proofed!
SNEAK PEEK:
Ponder this: How many walks have you and your dog shared together - as opposed to walks where your dog
isn't really mentally connected to you, or you're not really connected to your dog, or both.
In your next session, we will take distraction-proofing to another level by teaching your dog to move with you on a
walk on a LOOSE six foot lead.
Can you visualize the following?
A calm, relaxed you, walking down the street with your happy, relaxed pooch trotting along next to you,
occasionally looking up at you to smile and wag its tail as if to say, "We're on an adventure - together. Isn't it
great?" The key word is 'together.'