Marker Training
Notes:
Requires a hungry dog (don’t feed before training), if using food rewards.
Requires a bored dog (kenneling for 2 hours before the training session is recommended), if using toy rewards.
Remember that you can mix rewards.
For an excellent video on marker training by master trainer Mike Ellis, check out this link (you can skip the first 3
minutes if you wish!): Michael Ellis on Marker Training, pt. 1
For a GREAT video of common mistakes in marker training, click here.
More Videos:
Marker Training for Humans
Marker Training a Goldfish???
How 'bout some CRAZY goldfish tricks...if a fish can do it...your dog can do it!
What is marker training and how does it work?
Marker training uses positive reinforcement to link or “bridge” a dog’s behavior with a reward:
1. The neutral sound of the marker (bell, click, 'ex', 'yes!', etc.) communicates to the dog that he has performed a
desired behavior and that a reward is coming.
2. Timing is very important. Make sure you are communicating clearly with your dog by marking the EXACT desired
behavior.
3. The delivery of the reward is equally important. The reward should magically appear.
a. Don’t bribe your dog by showing the reward before the task.
b. Hide your treats using a bait pouch.
c. Hide your toys by wearing a vest, ball pouch, or hiding a tug behind your back in your belt, etc.
d. Don’t reach for the reward before you mark the behavior. There should be a very short lag time between the
marker and the delivery.
e. Vary the delivery by changing hands, tossing vs. bouncing a ball, etc.
4. A reward is ANYTHING that has high value to the dog. We will start with treats, and gradually vary rewards (treats,
toys, praise) according to the dog’s value system.
a. Just because YOU think something should be rewarding, doesn’t mean the dog agrees.
b. Treats should be soft and easy to chew and swallow. (soft treats are best - bits of hotdog, chicken, cheese, steak,
store bought, etc.)
c. Treats should be broken up and no larger than the first knuckle of your pinky finger.
d. Favorite toys should be reserved for training only.
5. Leave the dog wanting more! The marker training session should end on a successful exercise while your dog is
still motivated and wanting to work.
What marker training is NOT:
Marker training is not a bribery or coercion system. In fact, we are letting the dog use his problem solving skills to
associate a command with a behavior that EARNS him a reward.
Practice the Mark:
We start by conditioning the dog to associate the marker with rewards. One mark, one treat, and it’s ALL ABOUT
TIMING. We start with commands that the dog already knows:
Practice marking the dog for sit. Use your timing correctly! Mark, THEN reward.
Marking the auto-sit during heeling and on recall.
- Bring your dog into the heel position.
- Heel the dog five to seven paces and stop.
- Give the sit command.
- Mark the sit. Then Reward.
- Heel the dog forward again, stop, and wait for an automatic sit.
a. Mark if your dog auto-sits.
b. Administer the sit correction after the two-count if the dog fails to sit. Praise the dog for sitting after the correction,
but don’t mark.
Note: If you are using a toy, it is acceptable for the dog to break the sit/heel position to play after the marker. The play
is the reward. Throwing a toy is not an appropriate reward for the recall. We don’t want the dog anticipating moving
away from the handler
- With your dog on its 6 ft. leash, say the dog’s name, then “come.”
- Mark the dog for coming to front and auto-sitting.
- Repeat the exercises five times each. You can break up the exercises by alternating them.
Using the word "Good" for duration, and introducing jackpots:
Good =Keep going….You're doing it right. Perfection = JACKPOT!
A dog receives a jackpot of multiple treats, or extended play with a toy, and a ‘praise party’ to communicate that he has
‘done it exactly right.’ Continue to use the proper correction if the dog doesn’t sit or recall.
- Bring your dog into the heel position.
- Heel the dog forward several paces and stop.
- IF the dog auto-sits in the exact proper heel position bridge using a JACKPOT.
- If the dog sits out of position, but still sits, say “GOOD!” Try again, only offering a jackpot for the perfect auto-sit.
- With your dog on its 6 ft. leash, say the dog’s name, then “come.”
- Offer a Jackpot when the dog auto-sits in the exact front position. If the dog sits out of position, but still sits, Say
“GOOD!”
- Repeat the exercises five times each. You can break up the exercises by alternating them.
Introducing a variable reward schedule:
We can start marking the dog for a string of behaviors instead of individual behaviors. Instead of marking and
rewarding for every behavior, we begin to ask for several behaviors between marks...then we begin to mark only
perfect behaviors - don't forget to use 'good!' or 'keep going' to let the dog know it's on the right track and to keep
working, because you just might mark the next behavior! For Example:
- Heel the dog forward for several paces and stop. When the dog auto-sits, say “GOOD!” (no mark, no reward)
- Heel the dog forward for several paces and stop. When the dog auto-sits, Mark it - then reward.
- Heel the dog forward several paces and stop. When the dog auto-sits, say “GOOD!”
- Heel the dog forward several paces and stop. When the dog auto-sits, say “GOOD!”
- Give the dog a wait command. Walk away from the dog. With your dog on its 6 ft. leash, say the dog’s name, then
“come.” When the dog auto-sits, Mark & Reward.
- Practice for 10 to 15 minutes. End the session on a successful string of behaviors, preferably a jackpot.
Note: This is an example of a variable schedule of reinforcement. Feel free to create your own string of commands and
randomly mark & reward. Jackpot for perfection. Apply corrections as necessary. If you have to correct, praise for
compliance but don’t mark.